Bolivia - La Paz

Greetings from the Altiplano of Bolivia. La Paz is such an interesting city, built in what resembles a three sided volcano (though I don´t think it was a volcano) with majestic mountains dominating the background under skies blue as Arizona´s (when it is not raining here). It´s the coolest (cold) place we´ve been, again, the altitude, and the sun is intense (yes, I´m using my sunblock). Much like the other south American capitals (thought La Paz is the unofficial capital, Sucre being the official) the streets bustle with cars, buses, people and animals in such chaos that it almost seems planned. The hills are steep that line the "bowl" of La Paz, and the houses are stacked one on top of the other overflowing the rim and sprawling out onto the surrounding plateau.

The indigenous population is prevalent, many not speaking much Spanish, only Quechua (Language of the Incas) and Aymara (another even older language). The ladies´ apparel is of the previous century, wearing layered dresses with shiny material, thick knit shawls and Charlie Chaplin felt top hats (the rounded kind), which is endlessly amusing, to me (not amusing like I want to laugh, just cracking a smile rather). And, just like all the more indigenous women since Oaxaca, they all carry loads on their backs like ants (almost the same proportions of weight too) using a tied piece of hand woven tapestry, and somehow have room for a baby in there too. I´ll never complain again about having to carry groceries from the car to the kitchen.

Beer when poured out of the bottle into a glass is pure foam, again, the altitude, which has been the source of some frustration, having to resolve to hard liquor (hee, hee). Bolivia is the Coca capital (though some would argue that Colombia is) and the USA´s presence in aide and loans controls the economy, with a special emphasis on obliterating Coca (leave that is processed to make cocaine) cultivation. One sees the locals, i.e. indigenous, chewing the leaves as has been done for 2500 years and wasn´t a problem for anyone until the Europeans came. I went to a museum dedicated to Coca, very interesting, and learned a lot about this simple little plant that intrigues the world. And while there is an incredible demand in the US and other European countries, there will be a supply from Bolivia, creating a vast schism between political parties who support cocaleros (growers) and the US. However, we haven´t encountered much Anti-American sentiment other than graffiti on the walls. So it goes...

Tonight we´ll be heading to even higher and colder ground, Potosí, once the most important city in Latin America, because of its mines. I´m much looking forward to this city because of it´s historical significance, though supposedly only a ghost city anymore. I´ll tell you more as I learn more.

So we´re going to war? Another Vietnam? apparently the gov´ment has been unloading many a dollar in war preparation already. Hmmm? Nelson Mandela has condemned Bush, but I guess "peace" is not the objective.